Tuesday, April 24, 2007

when in gerome...

After Ren's exhaustive entry on Cappadocia I don't think there is really much more I could say about the area. I'll try to fill in some of the gaps anyway.

Goreme was the first place in Turkey where the tourists seemed to outnumber the locals. Kiwi's Aussies, Japanese and Germans were everywhere!

the town catered slightly to western culture.
we rode with the family down the street through the courtesy of blistered feet. We stayed at the Kose Pension, a really mellow environment with all the comforts of home. Chess, laundry service, veggie meals for Ren, plenty of tables for playing shithead*, wi-fi, and use of the lovely pool. We were told that at this time last year the pool was thumpin' and bumpin' (as pools are known to do) and the weather was hot! Luckily for us the first two days we were in Goreme it was snowing when we woke up.

we had full access to the pool at Kose. Goreme is a bit of a backpackers paradise, but the touristy aspects of the the town were far outweighed by the beauty of the surrounding area, and in less then 10 minute walk you could be out of town and engulfed by a surreal landscape.

View from just outside of town. note the snow on the mesa. On most of our hikes we were guided by the Kose affiliated Spotty, who knew where all the best vista points. Mark and fellow backpacker Tavi overlooking Rose valley. View from the top of aformentioned mesa.Inside the valleys the hills and rocks were riddled with carved caves and churches. Some of the carved out areas in the walls were pigeon houses. The locals would use pigeons for many things. The eggs for eating and egg whites for mixing paints. The pigeon droppings were good fertilizer, and the pigeons were good messengers. But even more interesting were the churches. Most were built during Roman times by early Christians. Hidden in the rocks becuase at the time Christianity wasn't even considered a religion, it was more of a cult.

Action Mark poking his head out after climping up to a pigeon house.
What might look like this from the outside......could look like this on the inside! wow! (this one had many rooms)
Some churches looked like they were decorated by Ron Rege jr.
Other churches like the Karanlik Lilise (or dark church) were filled with frescos.
The eyes and faces were scratched out of the frescos due to the muslim belief in not depicting the face.
creating some very eerie imagry.
While still other carvings will remain shrouded in mystery for all eternity.
While Ren and Tavi rented scooters and Mark spent the day doing work, Anna (aussie backpacker) and I went to Derinkuyu, the sight of the largest of the underground cities. The area of Cappadocia is also filled with about 36 underground cities located out and about the surrounding area. Derinkuyu is 85 meters deep and consists of 7 different levels. It was originally dug by the Hitites as a grainery to keep produce fresh for as long as possible. Eventually, as more levels were added, it was used to hide from rampaging hordes. They would live down there for months at a time. The underground city was equiped with stables, a church and a school. as well as a fully working winery and communications system. Pretty neat.
view of the underground city from above ground.Under the ground. I was trying to take photos without a flash, but most came out very blurry. Sorry!
Also, while in Goreme, I came closer than I ever have before to finding the answers I've been looking for. (it's the whole reason i joined up with GlobTrans in the first place)

Goreme's world famous Ufo museum and cafeteriaOnly 50 meters away from the answers! I am glad to know i am not alone!!! (somebody's gotta be holding the camera)
At the last minute I turned back from the ramshackle shack containing the proof I'd been searching for since jr. high school english class. I learned long ago from shows like the "X-files" and more recently "Lost" you should never find any answers, only raise more questions (that way they can drag the plot out and make the show last more seasons).


perhaps the answers are here. ¿Qué Sucedió a Maxi Rodriguez?


*shithead I guess is a backpacker card game (not to be confused with Besiklas rules shithead, which is a whole different game alltogether)

Monday, April 23, 2007

Trabzon...

We arrive in… Trabzon, located in the north of turkey between the black sea coast and the Kackar mountains. It is a big port town that’s been around for quite some time. 746 B.C. to be exact.

A view of those same mountains from up in the plane. (photo courtesy of the files of Maxi Rodriguez)
We arrived on Easter Sunday and just so happened to stay at the Sancta Maria Hostel, a catholic monastery in the middle of Islamic Turkey. It was pretty surreal. While staying here we found out that the last priest who preached here was shot in the back of the head for saying that Allah and the catholic god were one and the same. Now there are secret police at all of the masses.

Ren declared the hostel to be the best place he’s stayed so far. Free kitchen, laundry, a private bathroom in every room and nice mattresses on the beds. Last but not least, the price. The Sancta Maria asks for a donation of whatever you can afford as payment for these plush digs.

view of the Sancta Maria's Church.
The next day we took a dolmus (a small bus/van which can carry up to 7 people anywhere they want.) with our local tour guide, Celine, up to the Sumela Monastery. This particular dolmus had backwards facing seats, so me and Ren were lucky enough to get a nausea inducing ride up the winding roads south of Trabzon into the mountains where the Monastery lives. I’ve had pretty bad cold the whole trip so nausea was a good addition to the list.

After a killer hike (killer most likely because I’m out of shape) up switchback after switchback we arrived at what so far has been my favorite thing we’ve seen/experienced so far! The Sumela Monastery. Back in the Byzantine time it was all the rage to hike up to the middle of nowhere and build a crazy monastery into the side of a mountain.

My first glimpse of the monastery, i was ecstatic due to lack of oxygen (no wonder they built it up here). view of the surrounding area half way up the side of the mountain. looking down on the monastery The biggest downside was that visitors have scratched their names into what is now almost illegible frescos. Some have even stolen the faces. Idiots! quote of the hike: "look, he's being eaten by lions!" ristaino the younger.


by the way...
¿Qué Sucedió a Maxi Rodriguez?